Here I go again. Every time I get used to something a supposedly improved procedure comes along. I have been fishing tandems/droppers for a while now with the dropper[trailing?] fly tied to the bend of the fly tied to the leader, then I go and read that the preffered way is to the eye of the original fly. I put the article down and tried to envision the differance. Is it possible that a dropper tied to the bend could impair the first flies effectiveness?
Give us a try!
Welcome back to the new NEFF. Take a break from Twitter and Facebook. You don't go to Dicks for your fly fishing gear, you go to your local fly fishing store. Enjoy!
Dropper question
- Thread starter sonny
- Start date
Corndog
Ephemerella Subvaria
Sonny,
You should do a poll on this and see what the results are. I'd bet there are many different ways to fish tandems and many opinions as well.
Cdog
Karel
sleep, eat, flyfish, repeat
I tried both, and went back to the dropper tied to the bend of the first fly. My experience was that when the dropper was tied to the eye of the first fly, the flies would spin around the axle of the leader while casting and once the tension of the cast would relax the leader, it would twist into an unholy mess. But, that might be due to me not being a really good caster. Try it all out and stick to whatever works best for you.
Pete
Trout Hunter
I prefer to leave one tag end of a blood knot long. I prefer the blood knot because the tag end is perpendicular to the leader. Others may prefer to use a stronger knot (for obvious reasons), and put up with a slightly increased chance of a tangle.
If I want to add another fly to the mix, without rebuilding the leader. I'll tie another tippet to the bend of the "point" hook.
BTW: I'm moving this topic to the "Fly Fishing Tips / Techniques" section.
If I want to add another fly to the mix, without rebuilding the leader. I'll tie another tippet to the bend of the "point" hook.
BTW: I'm moving this topic to the "Fly Fishing Tips / Techniques" section.
Last edited:
eddavidson9
how's that for a slice of fried gold
I agree with Pete. I fish tandems 90% of the time, and I found I missed a lot of fish on the top fly when tying onto the bend (often using a hopper or beetle above a nymph); hookups improved a lot when I went to the tag end of the knot, including when fishing 2 nymphs.
I havent tried tying to the eye of the top fly...wary of crowding the eye and possibly having issues with the hookeye bend at the closure point.
I'll usually get a little spin tying to the tag, but nothing unmanageable. The other thing to keep in mind is that, since the point fly is not directly tied to the top fly, it doesn't make quite as good of an indicator...there is inherently slack between the two flies.
I havent tried tying to the eye of the top fly...wary of crowding the eye and possibly having issues with the hookeye bend at the closure point.
I'll usually get a little spin tying to the tag, but nothing unmanageable. The other thing to keep in mind is that, since the point fly is not directly tied to the top fly, it doesn't make quite as good of an indicator...there is inherently slack between the two flies.
I am mixed - but different set ups will act differently! When you have more than one fly on your line the two flies will affect each other since there is a connection between the two.
Normally I tie to the bend of the hook (New Zealand style) when indicator fishing or fishing a nymph below a dry since it is easier to tie on and tangles less with lighter tippets. I don't have a hooking problem, but I do think this rigging snags more fish. Had a huge discussion on this a few months ago and it raised plenty of furor. With a real dead drift this works great, but if the front fly drags it waves back and forth a little which is amplified by the tail fly when it is tied to the bend of the front fly.
The traditional way is to tie droppers to the leader and I like that, especially for fishing traditional wet flies, soft hackles, and Czech nymphs. The flies affect each other less when tied this way, but it will tangle more. I find using 3X or 4X tippets helps a great deal with tangles, but once gain this will be debated on and on as must people now believe a 6X leader is a rope. The usual way to make the dropper is to leave the tag end long from the knot between the leader and tippet. There are specialized knots to tie droppers on and the best ones slide on the line until they catch on the tippet to leader knot. Some Europeans use a 1 mm welded ring to tie the dropper to, but I haven't found a supply for good 1 mm rings, and soldering/welding them myself is a PITA and not worth doing with my fine motor skills.
An old tricky version of this has a soft hackle ahead of a streamer. If the trout doesn't like fish, maybe it will try to beat the minnow to a bug. Old timers believed competition made trout more agressive.
Tying to the eye is something akin to the New Zealand rig, but the tail fly doesn't wave around as much as the front fly waves back and forth. My biggest probem with this approach with my old man's eyes and clumsy fingers is tying two lines into the hooks eye. Leaving a 20" tag from a single knot is no joy either. Therefore, I tie to the bend fishing below an indicator or with droppers for wets and Czech nymphs.
Try what works for you.
Normally I tie to the bend of the hook (New Zealand style) when indicator fishing or fishing a nymph below a dry since it is easier to tie on and tangles less with lighter tippets. I don't have a hooking problem, but I do think this rigging snags more fish. Had a huge discussion on this a few months ago and it raised plenty of furor. With a real dead drift this works great, but if the front fly drags it waves back and forth a little which is amplified by the tail fly when it is tied to the bend of the front fly.
The traditional way is to tie droppers to the leader and I like that, especially for fishing traditional wet flies, soft hackles, and Czech nymphs. The flies affect each other less when tied this way, but it will tangle more. I find using 3X or 4X tippets helps a great deal with tangles, but once gain this will be debated on and on as must people now believe a 6X leader is a rope. The usual way to make the dropper is to leave the tag end long from the knot between the leader and tippet. There are specialized knots to tie droppers on and the best ones slide on the line until they catch on the tippet to leader knot. Some Europeans use a 1 mm welded ring to tie the dropper to, but I haven't found a supply for good 1 mm rings, and soldering/welding them myself is a PITA and not worth doing with my fine motor skills.
An old tricky version of this has a soft hackle ahead of a streamer. If the trout doesn't like fish, maybe it will try to beat the minnow to a bug. Old timers believed competition made trout more agressive.
Tying to the eye is something akin to the New Zealand rig, but the tail fly doesn't wave around as much as the front fly waves back and forth. My biggest probem with this approach with my old man's eyes and clumsy fingers is tying two lines into the hooks eye. Leaving a 20" tag from a single knot is no joy either. Therefore, I tie to the bend fishing below an indicator or with droppers for wets and Czech nymphs.
Try what works for you.
Last edited:
Trout Nazi
And...Boom goes the dynamite.
So you don't have a problem hooking up a fish that goes for the dry indicator (or point nymph)? I want to give this a go this season, and it seems that people have mixed success with the hook-up on the point fly. Could dropper length have something to do with this, or does the time it take to set the hook come into play?
onemorecast
New member
Call me crazy, but when it comes to tandems, I figured I'm not getting the point fly down enough, which would account for less hookups on that fly.
Dumb question of the day: Is the indicator placement supposed to be relative to the point fly or the trailer? I've been placing it relative to the trailer.
Dumb question of the day: Is the indicator placement supposed to be relative to the point fly or the trailer? I've been placing it relative to the trailer.
onemorecast
New member
Thanks, I'm sure I was probably taught that, too. When you get old like me, memory retention goes down the drain.
Corndog
Ephemerella Subvaria
Jesse,
Not a dumb question at all. This is where most people struggle when indicator nymph fishing. There are basically 2 thoughts on fishing 2 tandem nymphs. There are other methods as well, but these are the most commonly fished in my experience. Probably cause they are the easiest to tie up.
First thought is...weight the point fly (whether by using shot or preferably by adding lead when tying) and use an unweighted fly for the trailer. This way the trailer will drift freely in the currents and look more natural. With this method you would set your indicator to the point fly.
Second thought...weight the trailer (point fly can be weighted as well if you need to get down fast). With this method you would set your indicator to the trailer.
I prefer the second method primarily cause it's easier to cast and tangles less.
But, here's where the biggest problem comes in for many people. When fishing an indicator nymph rig, you're not going to catch many fish unless you can obtain a natural dead drift. If your indicator is downstream of your nymph(s), it will drag them at an unnatural speed and most fish will just watch it go by. You need to mend your line upstream to turn the rig around so the nymph(s) are downstream from the indicator. This is necessary in a pool or run with a slow to medium flow. So, you will need to position yourself so you can mend upstream, or stand above the pool/run and fish downstream into it. In fast water it's not usually an issue cause the fish are more agressive and don't have the time to check your fly out thoroughly before making the decision to take it or not.
Side note: For those of you who steelhead fish, a natural dead drift is absolutely necessary unless you are swinging streamers. If your dead drift is not natural steelhead will totally ignore your fly.
For those of you reading this who may be new to this fishing method, Joe Humphries taught me years ago that when overhead casting weighted tandem rigs, you need to let your line completely unload on the back cast. Wait until you start to feel a slight tug on your rod before bringing your rod forward and when you're about half way through your forward cast, push your thumb into your rod handle to lower your rod tip about a foot to help your line and flys unload smoothly and without hitting your rod tip. This will also open your forward loop and hopefully keep your nymphs far enough from your fly line that you don't end up with a tangled mess.
The only thing I hate about fishing indicator nymph tandem rigs is when I cast the whole thing into a tree. Aaarrrrrrggggg...
Cdog
Cdog makes an important point - mends are key. The fly needs some slack line to get to the bottom. It is amazing how little weight you need to get the fly down if you mend. Some hard core wet fly guys do not believe in weighting the flies or adding lead to the leader (I don't go that far) and can still get the flies down pretty well. I see a lot of guys continue to add more and more weight to get down and never mend so they never really get down and are slinging an awkward amount of weight.
Corndog
Ephemerella Subvaria
Jeff, I've seen that as well. It doens't take much weight to get flys down. Also, many times if you get a good drift a trout will come up from the depths and take a nymph just under the surface. When my son was 12 he taught me that valuable lesson. He hated adjusting his indicator, so he would set his nymph at about 18" under it and fish all day that way. Didn't matter whether the water was knee or waist deep, and he would catch fish all day that way. The best part about it was that he never snagged up and had to replace his fly.
Cdog
McAwful
Get some..
CDOG,
I could not disagree more!!!! This is not an attack and I am not saying that your methods do not work for you. In fly fishing there are many ways to skin a cat...
<O
</OThe increased speed of the top of the water keeps a slight amount of tension between your weight and indicator. If there is slack between your weight and indicator, how are you going to see gentle to medium takes?<O</O<O
</OGranted, you want as little LINE on the water as possible. I like no line at all on the water up to two feet depending on the drift.
<O
</OIf your drift is getting pulled off of the bottom by the speed of the indicator on the (faster) surface of the water you need to add more distance between your indicator and weight, or more weight. <O
</OI use this setup from huge water and giant stonefly nymphs, down to small streams where the trout are targeting 26 midge larva. I cam ALWAYS see the hit. I also have no problem with fish refusing the presentation because of speed.<O
</OMcA
Corndog
Ephemerella Subvaria
McA,
First... I take back everything nice I ever said or thought about you!
Second...If you're trying to ruffle my feathers, you haven't.
I learned this nymphing technique personally from Joe Humphries about 20 years ago and have been fishing it ever since. I fish 4-5 times a week throughout the year, except in winter where I fish about 2-3 times a week. So, I've proven this technique to be successful over and over again. Also, I teach this technique at seminars and have had much positive feedback from guys and gals about their increased catch rate.
Now on to your comments...
The increased speed of the top of the water keeps a slight amount of tension between your weight and indicator. If there is slack between your weight and indicator, how are you going to see gentle to medium takes?
If you cast well ahead of your target, say 5-6 feet, you will give your rig time to settle into the current and with the proper mending the weight of your nymph will pull your line tight enough to detect even the most subtle strike easily. But, I really don't see your point here as an issue cause even with slack line (say I'm fishing a nymph without any indicator) if I'm paying attention I can see the most subtle line twitch and even see the line speed fluctuate with the changing currents. Many times, if my reaction is too slow, I see both the take and the spit on the line or the indicator.
Granted, you want as little LINE on the water as possible. I like no line at all on the water up to two feet depending on the drift.
Huh??? I don't even know where you're going with this comment. That must be some good smoke you got there. Maybe hi-sticking? When I make a 20+ foot cast there will be line on the water. That's why I recommend mending your line upstream.
If your drift is getting pulled off of the bottom by the speed of the indicator on the (faster) surface of the water you need to add more distance between your indicator and weight, or more weight.
Huh??? Here we go again...To use your own first comment...adding more distance between your nymph and indicator will increase the odds of loose line won't it??? Well, not if you add a few extra pounds of weight. I'm not a weight fisherman. I use mending and casting techniques to get my flys where I want them to be. At the most I would have a total of 0.2g total weight including nymph and shot. That's what...maybe 1/2 a BB shot. Even when Steelhead fishing I never use more than 2 BB shot and I catch many steelhead.
I use this setup from huge water and giant stonefly nymphs, down to small streams where the trout are targeting 26 midge larva. I cam ALWAYS see the hit. I also have no problem with fish refusing the presentation because of speed.
Well...I don't doubt you can catch fish with your methods and see the hit. But, would never outright question your techniques, like you've done with mine, unless provoked as in this case. I've watched many of your tying videos and bit my tongue.
And while we're jousting...let me ask a favor of you. Could you to please get a manicure before you post another fly tying video. My toe nails look healthier than your fingers and thumbs, and honestly it gross me out a little.
In the spirt of love and kindless,
Cdog
First... I take back everything nice I ever said or thought about you!
Second...If you're trying to ruffle my feathers, you haven't.
I learned this nymphing technique personally from Joe Humphries about 20 years ago and have been fishing it ever since. I fish 4-5 times a week throughout the year, except in winter where I fish about 2-3 times a week. So, I've proven this technique to be successful over and over again. Also, I teach this technique at seminars and have had much positive feedback from guys and gals about their increased catch rate.
Now on to your comments...
The increased speed of the top of the water keeps a slight amount of tension between your weight and indicator. If there is slack between your weight and indicator, how are you going to see gentle to medium takes?
If you cast well ahead of your target, say 5-6 feet, you will give your rig time to settle into the current and with the proper mending the weight of your nymph will pull your line tight enough to detect even the most subtle strike easily. But, I really don't see your point here as an issue cause even with slack line (say I'm fishing a nymph without any indicator) if I'm paying attention I can see the most subtle line twitch and even see the line speed fluctuate with the changing currents. Many times, if my reaction is too slow, I see both the take and the spit on the line or the indicator.
Granted, you want as little LINE on the water as possible. I like no line at all on the water up to two feet depending on the drift.
Huh??? I don't even know where you're going with this comment. That must be some good smoke you got there. Maybe hi-sticking? When I make a 20+ foot cast there will be line on the water. That's why I recommend mending your line upstream.
If your drift is getting pulled off of the bottom by the speed of the indicator on the (faster) surface of the water you need to add more distance between your indicator and weight, or more weight.
Huh??? Here we go again...To use your own first comment...adding more distance between your nymph and indicator will increase the odds of loose line won't it??? Well, not if you add a few extra pounds of weight. I'm not a weight fisherman. I use mending and casting techniques to get my flys where I want them to be. At the most I would have a total of 0.2g total weight including nymph and shot. That's what...maybe 1/2 a BB shot. Even when Steelhead fishing I never use more than 2 BB shot and I catch many steelhead.
I use this setup from huge water and giant stonefly nymphs, down to small streams where the trout are targeting 26 midge larva. I cam ALWAYS see the hit. I also have no problem with fish refusing the presentation because of speed.
Well...I don't doubt you can catch fish with your methods and see the hit. But, would never outright question your techniques, like you've done with mine, unless provoked as in this case. I've watched many of your tying videos and bit my tongue.
And while we're jousting...let me ask a favor of you. Could you to please get a manicure before you post another fly tying video. My toe nails look healthier than your fingers and thumbs, and honestly it gross me out a little.
In the spirt of love and kindless,
Cdog
onemorecast
New member
CD & McA -
Thanks to both of you for your input. There is more than one way to nymph and I'm sure you both catch a lot of fish with your methods. Whereas, I do not catch more than one or two fish per outing, I can learn a lot from both of you and wouldn't dream of questioning either of your methods.
CD's advice is probably more fitting to my situation, though, as I long-line nymph more than anything else. I just got a Z-Axis, which has helped me improve my mend considerably over my starter rod. So I'm really into mending right now.
And I believe those are Biot's fingers in those tying videos, not Mike's.
Bigger fish to fry: when are we gonna get some rain???!!!
Thanks to both of you for your input. There is more than one way to nymph and I'm sure you both catch a lot of fish with your methods. Whereas, I do not catch more than one or two fish per outing, I can learn a lot from both of you and wouldn't dream of questioning either of your methods.
CD's advice is probably more fitting to my situation, though, as I long-line nymph more than anything else. I just got a Z-Axis, which has helped me improve my mend considerably over my starter rod. So I'm really into mending right now.
And I believe those are Biot's fingers in those tying videos, not Mike's.
Bigger fish to fry: when are we gonna get some rain???!!!
Last edited:
Corndog
Ephemerella Subvaria
CD & McA -
Thanks to both of you for your input. There is more than one way to nymph and I'm sure you both catch a lot of fish with your methods. Whereas, I do not catch more than one or two fish per outing, I can learn a lot from both of you and wouldn't dream of questioning either of your methods.
CD's advice is probably more fitting to my situation, though, as I long-line nymph more than anything else. I just got a Z-Axis, which has helped me improve my mend considerably over my starter rod. So I'm really into mending right now.
And I believe those are Biot's fingers in those tying videos, not Mike's.
Bigger fish to fry: when are we gonna get some rain???!!!
Yea...what happened to the water? A week ago everything was flowing good, some better than good. Now some of my fishing spots look like we're having a drought.
Well...who's ever fingers those are...you know what I mean.
What!!! You fry your trout! lol
Cdog
McAwful
Get some..
Cdog,
I said "This is not an attack and I am not saying that your methods do not work for you. In fly fishing there are many ways to skin a cat..." You are taking this way too personal. I am a constant student and intend to remain so where fly fishing is concerned. I genuinely am confused by what I read. If I misunderstood what you wrote I am sorry. Please take a look at two quick drawings I did and explain what I do not get about your post.
As for your personal attack about the condition of Biot's hands...the dude is in the unions and works with his hands. He is a manly man and not a manicure having metro. He can also tie circles around 95 % of the population...Thanks for you time, I want to understand what I missed...
McA<O</O
I said "This is not an attack and I am not saying that your methods do not work for you. In fly fishing there are many ways to skin a cat..." You are taking this way too personal. I am a constant student and intend to remain so where fly fishing is concerned. I genuinely am confused by what I read. If I misunderstood what you wrote I am sorry. Please take a look at two quick drawings I did and explain what I do not get about your post.
As for your personal attack about the condition of Biot's hands...the dude is in the unions and works with his hands. He is a manly man and not a manicure having metro. He can also tie circles around 95 % of the population...Thanks for you time, I want to understand what I missed...
McA<O
</OAttachments
onemorecast
New member
McA<o>
So that's what my rig is supposed to do underwater? I never had a clear understanding of that. Thanks for the visual aid! So the shot is supposed to ride the bottom? I somehow got the impression that the shot was supposed to hang in the column and the nymph(s) were supposed to drift along the bottom under it. I'd better get back to reading some instructional books - I do so little of that.
McAwful
Get some..
Jessie,
No need to read because we did a video this winter. You will want to go "lighter" for this time of year. You will need less weight - one green BB down to a number 1 for the weight. You may also switch it to 5x for the first fly, 6x for the point fly.
Good Luck,
McA
<center> <script type="text/javascript" src="http://blip.tv/scripts/pokkariPlayer.js?ver=2008010901"></script> <script type="text/javascript" src="http://blip.tv/syndication/write_player?skin=js&posts_id=522946&source=3&autoplay=false&file_type=flv&player_width=640&player_height=480"></script> <div id="blip_movie_content_522946"> <a rel="enclosure" href="http://blip.tv/file/get/RiseFormStudio-Episode11677.flv" onclick="play_blip_movie_522946(); return false;"><img title="Click to play" alt="Video thumbnail. Click to play." src="http://blip.tv/file/get/RiseFormStudio-Episode11677.flv.jpg" border="0" title="Click to play" /></a> <br /> <a rel="enclosure" href="http://blip.tv/file/get/RiseFormStudio-Episode11677.flv" onclick="play_blip_movie_522946(); return false;">Click to play</a> </div> <script type="text/javascript"> play_blip_movie_522946(); </script> </center>
No need to read because we did a video this winter. You will want to go "lighter" for this time of year. You will need less weight - one green BB down to a number 1 for the weight. You may also switch it to 5x for the first fly, 6x for the point fly.
Good Luck,
McA
<center> <script type="text/javascript" src="http://blip.tv/scripts/pokkariPlayer.js?ver=2008010901"></script> <script type="text/javascript" src="http://blip.tv/syndication/write_player?skin=js&posts_id=522946&source=3&autoplay=false&file_type=flv&player_width=640&player_height=480"></script> <div id="blip_movie_content_522946"> <a rel="enclosure" href="http://blip.tv/file/get/RiseFormStudio-Episode11677.flv" onclick="play_blip_movie_522946(); return false;"><img title="Click to play" alt="Video thumbnail. Click to play." src="http://blip.tv/file/get/RiseFormStudio-Episode11677.flv.jpg" border="0" title="Click to play" /></a> <br /> <a rel="enclosure" href="http://blip.tv/file/get/RiseFormStudio-Episode11677.flv" onclick="play_blip_movie_522946(); return false;">Click to play</a> </div> <script type="text/javascript"> play_blip_movie_522946(); </script> </center>
Well now you've provoked me Cdog, you got a problem with someone who works hard for a living. So my fingers aren't hand model material and they don't need to be in order to tye a good fly.
I myself don't really give a "rats ass" about what think about my fingers and next time you want to insult someone, make damm sure you know who it is your insulting.
It must be nice getting to fish 4 to 5 times a week. Wish I could but I have to be out there making a living with my hands, no matter how battered they get.
Corndog
Ephemerella Subvaria
Sorry biot, I guess I did go overboard with that comment, but I didn't know it was you. I thought I was jousting with McA and was attempting to do it in fun. I appreciate the fact that you work hard for a living and didn't mean to insult you. Prior to today, we would probably have had a good time fishing together.
Cdog
Corndog
Ephemerella Subvaria
McA,
What do you expect to get in response to starting off your post with,
"I could not disagree more!!!!"
Now that I see your pics, I see that you are fishing a completely different style than I am. I don't bottom bounce, so my nymph(s) and weight are never as close to the bottom as yours. That explains why you don't know what I'm talking about.
If it's ok with you I'll try to edit one of your pics to explain myself.
Cdog
What do you expect to get in response to starting off your post with,
"I could not disagree more!!!!"
Now that I see your pics, I see that you are fishing a completely different style than I am. I don't bottom bounce, so my nymph(s) and weight are never as close to the bottom as yours. That explains why you don't know what I'm talking about.
If it's ok with you I'll try to edit one of your pics to explain myself.
Cdog
dcabarle
Administrator
I'm sorry to say that as nice as the drawings are, they can never be right for most situations.
Some key items to do a little research on. Until then...
The best way to fish a nymph is to look at the water you're fishing and use your best judgement to determine the water in the place you're fishing. A little trial and error never hurt. You'll get a much better idea how to fish a nymph with trial and error than looking at a simple drawing or even by looking at someone elses video demonstrating what the stream was like on such and such a day it was recorded. That stream running 100cfs higher or lower is essentially a different stream and will undoubtedly be fished differently.
(EDIT) - Ok, just watched the video. I too have a completely different way of nymphing. First, take the indicator off!!! I suppose anything else I have to say would contradict anything I mentioned in the above paragraphs! I personally wouldn't keep the indicator so far up on my line. I think it's overkill. In the last pool you were fishing, My indicator would have been 3 - 3 1/2 feet from my fly and the splitshot (Dinsmore) would have been 6-8" from my fly.
Everyone has their own way of fishing. Mine is obviously the right way. Hey, I run a website, I should know. Like you mention in your video, Mike,... Trial and error is the best bet.
Some key items to do a little research on.
- Darcy's Law.
- Water Hydraulics
- Water Vortex
Until then...The best way to fish a nymph is to look at the water you're fishing and use your best judgement to determine the water in the place you're fishing. A little trial and error never hurt. You'll get a much better idea how to fish a nymph with trial and error than looking at a simple drawing or even by looking at someone elses video demonstrating what the stream was like on such and such a day it was recorded. That stream running 100cfs higher or lower is essentially a different stream and will undoubtedly be fished differently.
(EDIT) - Ok, just watched the video. I too have a completely different way of nymphing. First, take the indicator off!!! I suppose anything else I have to say would contradict anything I mentioned in the above paragraphs!
I personally wouldn't keep the indicator so far up on my line. I think it's overkill. In the last pool you were fishing, My indicator would have been 3 - 3 1/2 feet from my fly and the splitshot (Dinsmore) would have been 6-8" from my fly.Everyone has their own way of fishing. Mine is obviously the right way. Hey, I run a website, I should know.
Like you mention in your video, Mike,... Trial and error is the best bet.
Last edited:
onemorecast
New member
This is what I love about this forum! Some good stuff there on various nymphing styles. Thanks guys!
bkill
Quest for the Two Headed Trout
When High Sticking, I use a tag end dropper, I prefer to use a double surgeons knot..If you are having problems with tangles, shorten your dropper..or use the heavier tippet tag end...
I also use a tandem rig, tied to the bend of the hook. I use this rig when I am casting up-stream and slowly picking up the slack...I use light weighted or unweighted nymphs with this technique..or when deep water nymphing..
The Indicator is to the weight not the fly, unless the fly is the weight...Also a few small weights are better than 1 large weight...
There are lots of different ways to nymph, High Sticking, Czech, Tandem, Droppers, Bounce Nymphing, Indicators, no Indicators, tippet rings, etc....They all work and some work better in certain situations...Many ways to skin the cat, or catch Mr. Big...Try them all, you will find the right technique for you...Good Luck! See ya on the water..
I also use a tandem rig, tied to the bend of the hook. I use this rig when I am casting up-stream and slowly picking up the slack...I use light weighted or unweighted nymphs with this technique..or when deep water nymphing..
The Indicator is to the weight not the fly, unless the fly is the weight...Also a few small weights are better than 1 large weight...
There are lots of different ways to nymph, High Sticking, Czech, Tandem, Droppers, Bounce Nymphing, Indicators, no Indicators, tippet rings, etc....They all work and some work better in certain situations...Many ways to skin the cat, or catch Mr. Big...Try them all, you will find the right technique for you...Good Luck! See ya on the water..
Last edited:
McAwful
Get some..
CDOG,
That is how I set up for a Lisering (without an indicator) in broken water. I get what you are talking about. I fish a 9'6" or better most of the time and rarlely need to have any line on the water, thus the confusion.
Dennis,
Of course it will not work in all situations. From day to day (and in the same spot mind you) you will have to change your depth, amount of weight and flies. That does not negate the fact that a visual aid can help someone understand how a rig can be setup. That rig is great in the winter and spring and not so great in the beginning of the Summer and Fall when I do not use the indicator at all. Opps, I just rhymed.
Sorry if I ruffeled anyones feathers on this one. It was not my intent. As Dennis has pointed out in the past, it is hard to get the emotional content (yes Bruce Lee Ref) from words on a message board.
McA
That is how I set up for a Lisering (without an indicator) in broken water. I get what you are talking about. I fish a 9'6" or better most of the time and rarlely need to have any line on the water, thus the confusion.
Dennis,
Of course it will not work in all situations. From day to day (and in the same spot mind you) you will have to change your depth, amount of weight and flies. That does not negate the fact that a visual aid can help someone understand how a rig can be setup. That rig is great in the winter and spring and not so great in the beginning of the Summer and Fall when I do not use the indicator at all. Opps, I just rhymed.
Sorry if I ruffeled anyones feathers on this one. It was not my intent. As Dennis has pointed out in the past, it is hard to get the emotional content (yes Bruce Lee Ref) from words on a message board.
McA
Last edited:
I'm glad thats all cleared up. Hell I'm allways looking for new ways to nymph as long as they are effective. Which seems that both ways are in certain situations.
Apology accepted Cdog and we still could have a good time fishing together, if that ever happens, who knows. I'm easy to spot on the stream, I allway's wear a Packers hat.
Similar threads
