JOE.T
Dry Flies Only
Guys I though I would start a new post,but just a continuaton of the one called Micro fibets.
I just want to make it clear that I use these patterns and techiques,when I am fishing to rising fish.Some call it Dry-fly fishing,I call it fishing to the rise.
I will start with the pattern I use from 6-10 inches below the film(surface) and will go thru every phase of emergence until dun.
Most consider the emegence of a mayfly only 4 stages 1.Fish a nymph on the bottom. 2.Fish an emerger on the surface 3. Fish the dun and 4. spinner stage.
I break it down in 11 stages
1. Nymphing on the bottom
2. Swinging or lifting the nymph off the bottom to imitate the initial ascent of the nymphs to the surface.
Ok heres "where" in the river ,I have found that most fish will feed on mayflies when I see rising fish. All of these stages in one way shape or form will leave a disturbance on the surface which is visible in most cases.
3. A pheasant with a bead head,and Flash back for the wing case fished under the surface film 4-10 inches.
4 Same pattern as above with no bead,fished 1-4 inches below the film.
5. Same pattern as above with cdc as wing case tied on a dry fly hook fished in the film.
There are two ways of fishing these patterns the first is the easiest method which is>
#'s 3,4,and 5 are fished as a dropper off the back of an adult that matches the current hatch happening at that time.You will want to tie the pattern anywhere from 8-16 inches off the back.The reason for the different lenghts, is the longer the tippet the deeper the fly will go. The reason you will have to experiment with different depths is that different species will hatch anywhere from 12 inches under the film to the film.(except quill gordons)they hatch on the streams bottom.
Obviously if #3 the Bh is not working go to #4 this will Put your pattern closer to the film,and if necassary go to #5 which will put your pattern in the film.
Always make your presentaion Down and Across-stream when using this techique.
I tie Pheasnats tails this way from sizes 12-22,and use the p,t 90% of the time the other 10% I use a hares ear to match the "fattter" species.
Ok the harder method>
No droppers, I fish these patterns with the same technique,casting Down and across to rising fish.What makes it very hard is you do not see your pattern.This way is very intense and takes some real concentration.One trick I learned out west is to put an indicator on your fly line right above where your leader is connected to the fly line.NEVER ON THE LEADER!
I rarley use an indicator but when on large rivers with declining light it is ofen needed.Either way you are always focused on the general area looking for a disturbance/rise form near where you think your fly is, or the slightest movement of your leader or indicator.In most cases your doing all of the above which is what makes it intense.
The way to varie your depths is by just going up the ladder with #'s 3,4,and 5 . NO GREASE! on the leader.
6. A cdc emerger tied on a scud hook.This is the stage where the dun is shedding its nymphal schuck and its wings are starting to unfold.The Antron or Zlon will imitate the peeling schuck,the cdc if tied in right with look just like the wings when they start to unfold and also give off tiny air bubbles as the naturals do.Its tied on a csud hook so that half the body is still under the film.If you want to see my pattern go to " First swap" on this web site and I have one there under JOE.T FLIES.
7.Down winged emerger pattern.Tied with deer hair as you would tie a caddis with a trailing shuck.It imitates the stage right after # 6 the wings are now straight back before they go upright and the body is tied on a std dry fly hook and it will be on the surface.If you want to see one go to http://www.mayfly.com go to I think products and then click on mayfly selections.
For 6&7 present these as you would any dry fly!
8.Sparkle dun or comparadun with trailing shuck
9.Same as above with of course Micro fibets
10.Semi spent spinner
11.spent spinner
Guys I GUARANTEE regardless of your experince if you sart to match not just the hartch but the stages you will catch more fish.
These pattterns and techiques should be used after you have tried your adult pattern".
Even though you may always catch fish, wouldnt you rather have a 20,30 or even a 40 fish day vs. a 5-10 fish day?This of course is if your a match the hatch guy.
And for you Delaware guys these patterns and techniques can be the difference from getting skunked or only managaing a couple of fish vs 8-12 fish night which as you Delware guys know is not so easy at times.Especially when fishing to those "wise" wild giants.
Some Books on the subject
1.Emergers by Swisher and Richards
2.Hatches 11 by Al caucci, although a book on mayflies in general he talks about in detail the emergence of each Genera of mayflies.
3.Mayflies by Malcolm Knopp & Robert Cormier a great book on mayflies as hatches 11 but gets into much greater detail with regards to patterns and the emergence of mayflies.
Hope this helps. PLEASE ASK QUESTIONS IF YOU HAVE ANY.
I just want to make it clear that I use these patterns and techiques,when I am fishing to rising fish.Some call it Dry-fly fishing,I call it fishing to the rise.
I will start with the pattern I use from 6-10 inches below the film(surface) and will go thru every phase of emergence until dun.
Most consider the emegence of a mayfly only 4 stages 1.Fish a nymph on the bottom. 2.Fish an emerger on the surface 3. Fish the dun and 4. spinner stage.
I break it down in 11 stages
1. Nymphing on the bottom
2. Swinging or lifting the nymph off the bottom to imitate the initial ascent of the nymphs to the surface.
Ok heres "where" in the river ,I have found that most fish will feed on mayflies when I see rising fish. All of these stages in one way shape or form will leave a disturbance on the surface which is visible in most cases.
3. A pheasant with a bead head,and Flash back for the wing case fished under the surface film 4-10 inches.
4 Same pattern as above with no bead,fished 1-4 inches below the film.
5. Same pattern as above with cdc as wing case tied on a dry fly hook fished in the film.
There are two ways of fishing these patterns the first is the easiest method which is>
#'s 3,4,and 5 are fished as a dropper off the back of an adult that matches the current hatch happening at that time.You will want to tie the pattern anywhere from 8-16 inches off the back.The reason for the different lenghts, is the longer the tippet the deeper the fly will go. The reason you will have to experiment with different depths is that different species will hatch anywhere from 12 inches under the film to the film.(except quill gordons)they hatch on the streams bottom.
Obviously if #3 the Bh is not working go to #4 this will Put your pattern closer to the film,and if necassary go to #5 which will put your pattern in the film.
Always make your presentaion Down and Across-stream when using this techique.
I tie Pheasnats tails this way from sizes 12-22,and use the p,t 90% of the time the other 10% I use a hares ear to match the "fattter" species.
Ok the harder method>
No droppers, I fish these patterns with the same technique,casting Down and across to rising fish.What makes it very hard is you do not see your pattern.This way is very intense and takes some real concentration.One trick I learned out west is to put an indicator on your fly line right above where your leader is connected to the fly line.NEVER ON THE LEADER!
I rarley use an indicator but when on large rivers with declining light it is ofen needed.Either way you are always focused on the general area looking for a disturbance/rise form near where you think your fly is, or the slightest movement of your leader or indicator.In most cases your doing all of the above which is what makes it intense.
The way to varie your depths is by just going up the ladder with #'s 3,4,and 5 . NO GREASE! on the leader.
6. A cdc emerger tied on a scud hook.This is the stage where the dun is shedding its nymphal schuck and its wings are starting to unfold.The Antron or Zlon will imitate the peeling schuck,the cdc if tied in right with look just like the wings when they start to unfold and also give off tiny air bubbles as the naturals do.Its tied on a csud hook so that half the body is still under the film.If you want to see my pattern go to " First swap" on this web site and I have one there under JOE.T FLIES.
7.Down winged emerger pattern.Tied with deer hair as you would tie a caddis with a trailing shuck.It imitates the stage right after # 6 the wings are now straight back before they go upright and the body is tied on a std dry fly hook and it will be on the surface.If you want to see one go to http://www.mayfly.com go to I think products and then click on mayfly selections.
For 6&7 present these as you would any dry fly!
8.Sparkle dun or comparadun with trailing shuck
9.Same as above with of course Micro fibets
10.Semi spent spinner
11.spent spinner
Guys I GUARANTEE regardless of your experince if you sart to match not just the hartch but the stages you will catch more fish.
These pattterns and techiques should be used after you have tried your adult pattern".
Even though you may always catch fish, wouldnt you rather have a 20,30 or even a 40 fish day vs. a 5-10 fish day?This of course is if your a match the hatch guy.
And for you Delaware guys these patterns and techniques can be the difference from getting skunked or only managaing a couple of fish vs 8-12 fish night which as you Delware guys know is not so easy at times.Especially when fishing to those "wise" wild giants.
Some Books on the subject
1.Emergers by Swisher and Richards
2.Hatches 11 by Al caucci, although a book on mayflies in general he talks about in detail the emergence of each Genera of mayflies.
3.Mayflies by Malcolm Knopp & Robert Cormier a great book on mayflies as hatches 11 but gets into much greater detail with regards to patterns and the emergence of mayflies.
Hope this helps. PLEASE ASK QUESTIONS IF YOU HAVE ANY.
