Welcome to NEFF

Sign up for a new account today, or log on with your old account!

Give us a try!

Welcome back to the new NEFF. Take a break from Twitter and Facebook. You don't go to Dicks for your fly fishing gear, you go to your local fly fishing store. Enjoy!

Saltwater Setup

Dr. Gonzo

Stuck in my cabana, livin on bananas and blow.
As if I don't already use enough of the free time I don't have on freshwater fly fishing, I decided to spend some of my tax return on a salt water outfit! I am looking forward to fishing for some stripers and blues, especially this fall after I emerge from my Bar Exam study cave.

Here's what I got:

Sage Launch 9ft, 4pc 9wt
Lamson Radius 3.5
Rio "Saltwater" Floating Line 9wt

The whole rig cost me just over $300 including shipping. Pics will follow once I receive the reel and line.
 
ZO

If you are going to have only one line I would suggest getting at least an intermediate. With an intermediate you can fish poppers sliders as well as sub surface flies. It will actually be easier in my opinion to fish surface flies with an intermediate. Another option could be to get a shooting head setup. With a shooting head set up your could then swap out an intermediate head for a sinking head on the fly.

good luck in the salt maybe I will see at the hook this fall!
 
I agree on the floating line. If you can return it for exchange, get an intermediate. I have a floating head that I think I have used exactly one time for poppers. My intermediate sink lines or heads are used about 80% of the time and the rest are faster sink lines or heads. I use lines for my 9 weight and shooting heads for my 2 hand 11 weight, but if I were to do it over, I'd use heads for both rigs!
 
Thanks guys! I'm looking into it right now. What do you guys think about the Rio Saltwater Floater with the 9.5ft clear intermediate tip? I can get that for the same price as the full float line and it probably isn't too late to change the order.

I do eventually plan to get a spare spool and have a sinker/intermediate in addition to the floater, but I would like to wait for a bit (until I am gainfully employed) before I start hemorrhaging money again :D
 
Try and get a shooting head set up with two heads it might even be cheaper. For shooting head setups I like braided running line. Otherwise I would use an intermediate line and not worry about a clear tip. My second line would be a depth charge or another line that has a full sink tip paired with an intermediate running line.

Dont forget to get some tiger gel wire for when the blues are around that stuff is great!
 
I agree with AOL and Rusty.

I also think a full intermediate or full sinker with fast sinking tip is where you need to be. Shooting head systems are great as well, just take some getting used to in terms of casting.

I have used floaters with a mini tip and always felt like I wasn't getting down where I need to be, especially in the large water of the surf, or bay. If you can go with one of the other options, I would try to make that happen.



~James
 
Hey Guys, thanks for all the advice. I ended up switching my order to the Rio Floater with the 9.5ft intermediate tip section. At 19.95 it was a great deal and hopefully it'll work out ok. If not, I'm not in the hole for too much and I can upgrade to something more effective later on.
 
Personally, I've not adjusted to using shooting heads... just don't like the running lines I've tried.

That said, they work, but there is an alternative.

If you can try the Rio Outbound series they have essentially a shooting head with an integrated running line.. one piece and they work fantastic. I have a fast sink head (30ft) with a floating running line and for me it's perfect for the ocean front. For the back I'll use an intermediate or floating line. This seems to cover everything I want.

If you like the shooting head system(s) then go for it, but suggest at least looking at the Rio Outbounds.
 
I see that your getting a lot of advice on going with sinking tip or intermediate line. I've been salt water FF for 3 years now with an intermediate but this year I'll be going floating most of the time. I fish on Block Island and I've met disciples of Ken Abrahms. Ken has a website that is stripermoon dot com. It's worth checking out. I think the normal progression is to start out chucking clousers but sooner or later you'll find conditions with fish breaking all around you in shallow water and you'll wish you had the floater setup. Abrahms also is big on tying flatwing flies and also some very small patterns. check out Ken's site and read some of his articles. On Block Island the primary bait fish are sand eels and I've found Jack Gartside's sand eel pattern to work well. BTW, your setup sounds pretty good to me! And good luck
 
I'm glad this thread has been brought up. I'm fairly new to all this too and have been mesmerized by the different choices for saltwater. I have an intermediate line. I've heard you can use it for poppers and the like. Can this be done with a regular leader or do I need an extra long leader? Overall I have been thinking maybe it's better to have a shooting head system but I have never casted with a shooting head system. I guess its the same as intermediate, roll cast it to to the top and no false casting. Then I think if I can use the intermediate with poppers do I even need the shooting head? Would I ever need a floating line? I will go to Sandy Hook mostly and probably never fish from a boat...I don't know how much that adds to the equation.
 
Here is a link to a Ken Abrahms article
Ken Abrames' Stripermoon

Here are some interesting points in the article:

swimming plugs that fish no deeper than 16" on slow retrieves.
During this same period of time eel fisherman have caught even more thousands of large stripers off the shore by casting their eels out and finessing them back slowly. I do not know of a single large bass that was caught on a live eel that measured three inches long and was retrieved quickly so it wouldn't hang on the bottom.
Commercial rod and reel fishermen, those that stay in the business, catch their quotas of large fish regularly. They do not cast and retrieve small lures where small fish are dominant to do this. They pinpoint their effort and drift or live line their baits, live and cut, in the current to where the large fish are holding.
If the fish are small they leave and try to locate a school of large fish. They cannot waste the time culling through small fish hoping for a keeper. They do not depend on the fish to come to their baited hooks but bring their hooks to the fish as a rule. There are exceptions to this but it is the normal pattern that produces large fish in marketable quantities.
Fish move into current.
Fish move when there is no current.
Fish feed by facing into the current and intercept their food as it is carried to them.
Surf fishing is practiced in the current from the breaking waves not the tide.
Drag is the single most important energy to understand in saltwater fly fishing both from the shore and from a boat as it is in any form of fly fishing in moving water.
Sinking lines are affected as powerfully by drag as floating lines and they will not cut through currents and cancel out the effects of drag. Hence two fish over forty pounds caught on sinking lines from the shore in ten years.
Fishing deep for stripers that are feeding high in the water is not intelligent although it has become the normal methodology with a fly rod.
Trying to make a fish move to your fly by retrieving it through the water when that fish is holding in a feeding lane waiting for food to come to it is a low percentage tactic.
Using weighted flies will not catch fish that are feeding on the surface.
Casting the line all the way out is not the solution to catching fish that are feeding close.
Droppers are a good way to find out what the fish prefer quickly.
Fish that are focused on one size and type of bait can be aggressive but are caught by using methods borrowed from selective tactics.
The energy level of the water that a fish is feeding in will tell you its energy level in feeding. Slow water relaxed fish. Fast water fast fish.
 
If you are fishing from a NJ beach you could get away with nothing more than an intermediate line and none other. That said, I use a fast or super-fast sink line if the 1) tide is ripping and I'm fishing in the rips or 2) when the wind is howling and I'm the only FF on the entire beach (the spin guys only laugh until I hook up:)).

I went from a 9' 9 weight with an intermediate Sci Angler line and a Teeny 350 grain sink line on my spare spool to a 2 handed CND Spey in an 11/12 weight (feels like a 10 weight) with 120' level, floating fly line married to 36' shooting heads. I have a floating head (used once), and intermediate sink (used 80%+) and a fast sik of about 400 grains (used 15%+) and a super fast 750 grain head (seldom used except from a boat) . I seldom fish Clousers. I strongly prefer Decievers or other streamer patterns as I can get them down with shortening up my leader or increasing my sink rate by switching heads - or I can fish them high in the water column with a longer leader and my regular intermediate sink head. I can impart tremendous action to the fly, something you can't do with Clousers.

You'll need a stripping basket, the wire bite tippets mentioned for "Razor Lips", and good pair of pliers to remove hooks from Razor Lips and other fish, and some 16# - 20# tippet material for most NJ beach fishing. If Albies are around, I lengthen up my leaders and go to floro - you need all the advantages you can get with the little speedsters!

Salty FF is far less complicated that trout fishing. Fewer flies are needed, less acuracy is needed (I'm talking from the beach - not sight fishing from a boat), and less is more when you're putting in some miles walking in the sand. Find the bait and you'll often find the fish. Then enjoy the bend in the rod - no trout is going to fight like a saltwater fish...
 
Back
Top