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Leader to fly line connection?

Andre

The Bamboo Guy!
Just curious on what lb test leader you butt up to the fly line with. I am experimenting with this and still want to use loop to loop but may get away from prepared loops as it seems they tend to play with the taper of a fly line. Also if you use a nail knot how much butt do you use before your loop. I'm thinking 20 lb on a 3 weight and 30 lb on a 5wt., with about a 6inch butt. Am I close?
 
When I used to tie my own leaders, I used a 18" section of 15# test connected to the line with a needle knot.

Then I used:

18" 10# test
12" 8# test
12" 6# test
12" 4# test

Then I tied whatever length tippet I wished at the time, usually about 3 feet or more (as necessary).

However, I've settled on using the Orvis braided leaders, and have found that I spend far less time tying leaders together & more time fishing.

One of these days I'm going to try furled leaders, which man folks seem to prefer. Those that do rave about them...
 
I measure the end of the flyline with a micrometer. Then I use a plyobond coated nail knot to affix a semi-permanent butt section, with a perfection loop on the other end.

The butt section is selected to be equal to, or a few thousanths less than the flyline diameter. It should NOT be a larger diameter than the flyline. I tend to use a fairly long butt section, up to 3 feet.

Measuring the flyline is a little tricky. Be careful not to pinch it, you're not measuring metal.

If you're uncomfortable with a micrometer, use a dial calipers or for more $ digital. Starrett is a popular brand.
 
André,

My leaders start at least 2x the rod length.That is, when I spool up to change pools and hook the fly to the handle, I reel up the slack and abot 4 turns of leader actually comes onto the reel.

I like to use really stif butt sections and the taper gets sharper as it goes down so:

Lb test ft
30 3
25 2
20 2
18 2
15 1.5
12 1.5
10 1.5
8 1.5
6 1.5
4 1.5
2 1.5

That for a no 7 10ft rod.

On Salmon rods I start with 40 lb and lose the 4 and 2 lb sections.

On a shorter trout rod I keep minimum 30 lb butt and shorten the 18-10 by half a foot.

I'm from Kamloops BC, so a 20 ft leader on a 8ft no. 5 is pretty normal.

I attach the leader/fly line with an albright knot as it's fast, easy and solid. Some say it makes too much of a "bump" at the connection, then again, I'll never reel up the line while fighting so far that the leader comes into the first guide.

Leaders are tough to balance for each person. Some need them stiff (like me 'cause I have a vicious trailing loop). Others like em short and soft.

I cast pretty big flies (a no 14 is getting small for me) so I "need" the oumf to get them turned over and out front.

Have fun.

Edit:

PS, I've found that WF and Steelhead tapers need more butt stiffness. My trout rods have DT so I can get away with shorter sections on the butt and move to the softer sections faster. WF's are so brutish, I need a long slow taper on the butt in the stiff weights to slow down the potential energy that comes slugging down the fly line.
 
Last edited:
I intend to continue to use Qrvis braided leaders. Maybe I wasn't clear but I just wanted to know how large a diameter or # test you might use with a nail knot and perfection loop to accomadate the Orvis braided leader. hope that is clearer.
 
Oops,

André, when I used braided leaders, I also used braided loops. Cortland makes some and I would slip it over the flyline to make a loop attachment on the flyline end.

I found that after a few days though, the flyline would break at the braid/line interface. Have to keep an eye on that.

Hope this is in line with your question.
 
Chris, it kind of is. I want to get away from the braided loop connector for the reason you explained and that I believe their diameter makes tapered lines level lines. So I am thinking about making my own connector out of stiff mono and a perfection loop. My question is: how stiff and how long before the perfection loop to which I would attach a braided leader. Again, I am thinking 20 lb test and 6 inches. don't know if that works for people. Andre
 
André,

OK, just tried it in the parking lot at the office. On a DT 5 weight, the 20 lb maxima 6 inches long is a bit thin. I tried 30 lb maxima and it seemed nice (4 inches)

On a 8 weight WF I liked the roll on 8 inches of 40 lb.

Both were able to turn over a no 8 bomber in a stiff breeze (on a fairly long leader - 1.8x rod lenght)

(and it is just blowing outside the office right now).


Sorry for the misundertanding in the beginning of the thread.
 
Interesting, guys. I haven't had a loop fail yet, or had any problems with the line at the loop conection.

Are you guys gluing the braided loops to the line?
 
Scott,

Sometimes glued, others not. The line doesn't fail, but the sheathing ends up cracking and WILL eventually fail. A sharp tug is usually enough to separate the line. One could ask if our lines are old. ... It seems to happen on all lines (manufacturers) and I use Cortland, SA, Orvis, Wulff.

I don't beleive I have one single braided loop connector on any lines anymore. I prefer attaching the leader directly to the line with the Albright (single, not locked on the leader side of the knot).
 
Scott said:
When I used to tie my own leaders, I used a 18" section of 15# test connected to the line with a needle knot.

Then I used:

18" 10# test
12" 8# test
12" 6# test
12" 4# test

Then I tied whatever length tippet I wished at the time, usually about 3 feet or more (as necessary).

However, I've settled on using the Orvis braided leaders, and have found that I spend far less time tying leaders together & more time fishing.

One of these days I'm going to try furled leaders, which man folks seem to prefer. Those that do rave about them...

What material are braided leaders made from? Are they really that much better than mono leaders?

Regarding furled leaders...are they just simply braided mono?
 
Braided leaders are made of mono. However, the advantages obtained by using a braided leader have little to do with the material.

Because they are constructed of many fine strands woven together, they are much more flexible, have little or no memory, and are very strong.

Like anything else, they are not maintenance free. You have to keep them clean, and inspect them as often as any other sort of leader, checking for damage, knots, etc.

Furled leaders, as I understand it, are typically constructed of thread, not monofiliment strands. I trust that I will be corrected if I am mistaken. As I have never used or even seen a furled leader, there is an excellent chance I am wrong! But as I said previously I would like to try one someday.
 
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