Thread: U-40 LS Supreme anyone?

I coated my wraps today on a replacement for my favorite rod, and they are crap. I usually use 5-minute epoxy, but it's expensive and stressful, mixing three or four times to coat a rod, so I gave this stuff a try. It claims to be a one coat epoxy, but when it set the wrap ends are exposed, and the middle was too thick.

Now, I'm no expert. I don't think I overcoated... on the contrary, some of the wraps need a second coat. The wrap next to the tiptop is especially bad. What's the trick to this stuff? My rod turner goes 5 rpm.

I'm going back to the 5 minute stuff. Even when I do a bad job it looks better than the U-40.

Have you tried Flexcoat? I've used that stuff on many rods and it goes on cleanly and sets right where you put it, and it barely yellows. It's a 2-part urethane epoxy blend, I believe. It has a 4-hour set time, though, so you'll need to keep it in the turner for quite a while. All I ever do or need is 2 thin coats. Last time I bought it, it was around $10. Not bad for such a good product, though you really only get to use it once before it gets sour (unless you are doing multiple rods at one time).

Stay away from the one-part epoxies. They are crap, as you have already found out.

I did try flexcoat once, I didn't particularly like it. I was turning by hand at that time , I had to watch TV a long time that day (while I turned).

I've used 5-minute epoxy on four rods. It's a pain, but it seems to turn out better.

This LS Supreme is a two-part. It's supposed to be the latest and greatest. Maybe I did something wrong. My next rod will be a Scott, an expensive blank, and I want it to turn out nicely. I'll have to do some investigating before I coat again.

In the meantime, do you know how I can take down the very high spots to do a second coat? I guess I know now what footballing is.

I have never wrapped a rod before but I do have a lot of experience using epoxy on flies.

I think 5 minute epoxy will set way to quick for you to get a smooth finish. You may be better off using 30 minute epoxy. Using very thin coats each time. It doesnt sound like you are in a production environment so the extra time should not matter.

With 5 minute epoxy, your working time to coat is very limited because by the time the wheel starts turning, the epoxy has already started to set and no matter how slow or fast your wheel is, the epoxy will not spread around the rod. With 30 minute, as your rod is turning, if you see that "footballing" effect, you still have time to take some of the epoxy off, or spread it out with a needle.

Just my 2 cents if thats worth anything coming from someone who never built a rod.

Well, after the second coat, I can report that the wraps are all improved, but one. I screwed it up by trying to move the coating around a little too late, and now it's a bit lumpy.

The most serious football was at the tiptop, but I carefully filed it down and coated it again, and it now looks fine. The wraps are still not as I expected, but I'll chalk this one up to experience. At least the blank was inexpensive!

I'll go fishing with it this weekend, and I'm sure I won't notice the wraps when a four pounder grabs my fly!

I use ls supreme for all my rods. I believe it is the most user friendly epoxy coating for rod wraps on the market. It is virtually bubble free. Working time is a good 45 min or so. I would not use 5 or 30 min epoxy on wraps. It will yellow and more importantly crack over time. If you want nice level wraps with ls.....make sure your first coat is VERY thin...just enough to fill tunnels and coat threads....you can finish with a SLIGHTLY thicker second coat....after each coat....make sure you're covered good and put that section on your rod turner and walk away..I would not remove the rod section for around 6hrs...recoat after 12hrs or so....again, the key to a really nice finish are THIN coats...most of the high end rod makers out there will finish with at least 2 and up to 4 THIN coats.....hope this helps.....see, I can be nice.....CDUN.

Thanks, comparadun. I did make my coats too thick, I believe. I also used a brush with too stiff bristles. I knew at the time I couldn't really tell how much was on the brush. I will practice a bit on an old wrecked blank (the corpse of my favorite rod) and try what you've told me before my next attempt.

I'll get the hang of it yet!

just dave,

there is a LOT of good info to be found on rodbuilding.org

there is a FAQ section and a library section

The library contains an article on "perfect thread epoxy"

You should be getting good results with LS supreme

I have been using Flexcote for around 9 yrs or so and can honestly say that any problems I have had were due to problems with my technique, not the product.

Thanks, rick. I've just begun reading that site a couple days ago, and have already identified some mistakes I've been making. My problem is me, not the goop.

I took a good look at my wraps again. They don't look so bad. They don't look professional, but I can live with it.

I have used both Flex Coat and LS Supreme. The supreme is far easier and forgiving. I apply it with a small metal spatula. I find that no matter how good a brush is, the spatula method is much better.

I like LS Supreme too. Just like painting, two thin coats give a nicer finish than one thick coat.

Burnishing the thread wraps before coating helps to give a nice smooth.

5 minute epoxy is not good for the long run - it yellows and loses strength. When I use LS Supreme to wrap a rod I use the extra for epoxy flies, since the epoxy shelf life will be past before I build another rod. They stay nice and clear unlike the 5 minute epoxy flies.

Practising on a old piece of rod is always the safe course of action. That way you can work til it looks just right to you with no surprises on the final article.